Nostalgic stories and missed experiences of growing up in Palestine that are stitched on thobes are unveiled at Abu Dhabi Art, which runs until November 26. Visitors to Manarat Al Saadiyat can revel in ‘A Thobe Story’ installation featuring 21st century thobes with modern aesthetics handstitched in traditional technique, crafted by UAE social enterprise 81 Designs and design studio Naqsh Collective.
Celebrating culture and heritage, the traditional garments were transformed into a new visual language to keep traditions alive. A Thobe Story tells of memories lost and memories which were never formed. Many Palestinians have to conjure up images of their homeland in their heads, basing them on the stories which have been shared with them over the years. This series covers three major Palestinian cities – Yaffa, Akka and Gaza. The thobes are handstitched by Palestinian refugee women employed by 81 Designs, using a time-honored embroidery technique called tatreez with patterns and intricate details that are passed down through generations.
The collection reflects stories of missing experiences in various cities of Palestine, originally depicted in Naqsh Collective’s brass, marble and wood work, and now transferred onto textiles.
The picturesque views of the city of Akka, third oldest city in the world, features its well-preserved old city walls. Pictured above is ‘Leap of Faith.’ As a rite of passage, boys jump from the famous cliffs of Akka to prove their manhood. In this thobe we see one young man suspended in mid-air, a splash beneath showing another boy has taken the plunge just before him. Layer upon layer of intricate tatreez have been woven to capture the jagged rocks, giving this thobe a beautiful texture.
The Wait (pictured above on the left) is a sister thobe to ‘Leap of Faith’. In this design, we see a line of boys waiting patiently, building themselves up to the leap from the cliffs. Breath-takingly captured in tatreez, there is a beautiful, dynamic quality to the boy already mid-jump and the cliff face is given real texture by the layers of hand-stitched thread.
The Akka thobe (pictured above on the right), stitched in bright red and gold thread, once more depicts the boys waiting their turn to leap form the cliffs in a show of masculinity. The wonderful, eclectic use of contrasting colours, styles and materials make this thobe stand out and perfectly reflect the experience of living in vibrant Akka.
With its pared back design and simple colour scheme, ‘My Journey’ thobe (pictured above) is entirely focused on the mental journey of the boys about to leap from Akka’s cliffs. This is about the internal monologues which must be taking place as the boys stand waiting and contemplate the dangerous feat. To the top right there is a brass sculpture of one young man suspended in mid-air.
‘The Fishing Trip’ thobe (above left) beautifully captures old Jaffa (pronounced as Yaffa) port, once a great fishing and trade hub on the Mediterranean. The focus here is on the fishermen in their small boats, using a minimalist design in white and gold thread to really capture the beauty of the harbour.
The Yaffa thobe (above right) takes a minimalist design and elevates it to something of stunning beauty. The simple black fabric is wonderfully embellished with rich gold thread, showcasing some of the most intricate tatreez work imaginable. The focus here is on the boats which used to cross to the famous trading port, and to the top right there is a solid brass vessel.
WaMashat (So She Left) thobe imagines a world where there is complete freedom of movement. This thobe depicts a woman bearing a basket of Gazan fruit and goods on her head, taking them home to her family across the border in Jordan. On the reverse of the dress you can see a dove, the symbol of peace. The women of Gaza often turn flour and sugar sacks into embroidered garments, so this thobe is made from similar material in tribute.
Public viewing at Manarat Al Saadiyat runs daily from 10 am to 8 pm until 26 November 2020. To see the collection virtually, please visit this link.
Each limited piece is available at USD 10,000. For more information, please contact @81DesignsME on
Facebook / Instagram / its official website 81designsme.com.
